Justaucorps: Men's Early 18th Century Ensemble Construction Page...
Welcome to Yvette's
a costume site...
This page was last updated: March 4, 2013
April 27, 2007:
This kind of coat has long been on my list of things I want to do.  Today I found the fabric...

It calls to be such a coat.   My original desire was to make Jack Sparrow's; this has now changed.  So many have made his, and good ones, too.

I want something more my own.   I found this on ebay; pure silk brocade in a shade I adore with a pattern that screams 18th Century.

Lisa also wants such a coat, so I'll be going through my fabric stash and doing her coat up first.  This time, I'll get the benefit of practice...

Are we making pirates? We shall see...
The Justaucorps pattern I plan to use... A photo of a Justaucorps Coat I found while researching Severus Snape's costume...
Way back sometime last year... (2006) I made up a mock up of this pattern, and packed it away.  It was for Jack.  Then Severus came along and took my heart away.  Well...  I still love Severus, but now, I'm back to the fact that I still don't have a 'true' Frock Coat... and I no longer want Jack's.  Sorry, my dear Jack friends, but there are simply too many of you for me to contend with.  ;D

Even so, I still have not made this Frock Coat.  But I have the muslin.  Back then, I thought I had made workable muslin, but it still needed some adjustments... Still true, but I was suprised to discover, it is closer to the ideal than I thought.  I'll have pictures up for you later tomorrow.  :D
April 29, 2007:

I am a bit farther along today on this very spontaneous revisiting of an old love.  I bought boots on ebay.  Yes... Argh, we have boots.  A black set, and a brown set.  This is quite advantageous, as I know Lisa is quite adamant on pirating with me in the near future.  ;D

Here be the boots:
May 5, 2007:

And here is the sword...
My muslin of the above pattern is pretty much ready to go, so today I started cutting out and constructing the first coat.   This will not be the one with the above charcoal brocade, but will match up with the brown boots quite nicely.   I'll have photos of this coat up in a little while.

Here are a few photos of the rose-tie-die Justaucorps coat in progress... No sleeves yet... No pockets, pocketflaps,  buttons or buttonholes yet... It is hanging out for now.
Jojo was hamming it up for the camera... ;D
Today I also pre-washed my charcoal brocade, but am as yet undecided on the lining.  I may use the royal blue antique gold cross dye shown here on the right, to warm things up, or the black natural cross dye shown on the left:  I am leaning towards the antique gold/royal blue, and using the black/natural as the shirting underneath...
May 14, 2007:

I decided to go with the black/natural, as it accentuates the look of charcoal.
I cut out the body of the coat on Saturday, and it is partially sewn together. 
The decision:
The pocket flaps are in.  I am managing to do a fair job of aligning the pattern. 
There are some creases in the side seams that I tamed after taking these photos, so things are smoother now.
Some Pirate Icons I've received from friends.  ;D
1.1/8th Inch Diameter
I Inch Diameter
9/16th Inch Diameter
7/16th Inch Diameter
1/2 Inch Diameter
May 17, 2007:  Today I did a bit of button shopping...  The gold/black and silver/pearl are the choices for my pirate.  The other buttons are just extra goodies I picked up along the way...  The one on the end will be for Arwen's Mourning Gown.
May 22, 2007:
I've been working on the hem of the brocade coat today... Here are some progress photos:
May 23, 2007:
I have sleeves on the burnout velvet coat... We still need buttons, but they have not yet arrived... And, I still need to finish the vent seams... I left the hem with a jagged edge, because I this one longer in the back, with a disheveled look.  ;)
May 27, 2007:

I have since noticed, the sleeves in the burnout velvet coat need to come out and be re-set in, as I positioned them on the armcye incorrectly.
I'm in the process of taking them out, and pinning them back in.

In the meantime, I have the charcoal brocade sleeves in, and took various photos, showing the coat shut as it will be when I add buttons, and also as I may open it at the top... I may not do that, not sure if I like it, but looking at the options.
I searched through my current stash of trim, and picked three possibilities.  They are pictured below.  The second and third trims are from Heritagetrading; the third is actually the same as the second, but with the extra-added side borders.  I think that is the one I like best... More bling means more bling... And for Charc, I think I want that, though I am still undecided.
I added the lapels originally on the charcoal coat, because I wanted to have the option of wearing it open, like these photos show.  I'm not sure I'll leave it this way; I may be altering it back; then it would look, in the front, more like the velvet burnout coat. 
June 8, 2007:

I have re-shaped the front panels, taking out the lapels, and started adding the trim.  I'm going with the heavy trim, for the bling impact.  ;)  The pins situatied on the left side are where the buttonholes will go in.  I'm going to be doing these manually; it is very hard through the trim... but... o, well.
June 10, 2007:

The long slow process of buttonholes and buttons has started... Here are a few beginning photos...
June 17, 2007:
I've added trim to the back tails... ;)
August 16, 2007: 

After what feels like a very long pause, I am back at finishing this ensemble.  I took a day and made a shirt, using lace at the neck opening and sleeves.  Here are a few photos:

The day after that I decided to make the breeches and braces... I haven't finished the hem on the breeches, and still need to sew in the bar in back on the braces... and have not photos of these standing alone yet, but I took a couple photos with the still unfinished coat.  The coat, still unfinished, has even so come a long ways.  All the button holes down the front are in.  These were hand cranked... The buttons down the front are in.  The left sleeve has the trim sewn in, and the buttons in.  Still to do is the trim on the right sleeve, and the button holes and buttons on the pockets.  Here are the photos.
I'll have more photos of the breeches and braces, and the coat, once they are finished.

On the do list:
A cravat.  Without a doubt, a laced cravat.
A head bandana to use until I make the tricorn. 
The tricorn is still on the calendar marked "someday". 
A harness for the sword that I'll attach to a belt.
A waistcoat.
For when my pirate may wish to go out and play  Steampunk... A pair of vintage safety goggles...
August 19, 2007:
I have acquired a nautical spyglass... Captain Julien Bel will appreciate the vision.
August 20, 2007:
The breeches and braces are finished.  I have also just completed a waistcoat.  So, I offer some pictures of the finished project, showing the layers.  You have already seen the shirt, above.

The breeches and braces:
The Waistcoat:
With a chainmail belt and my sword...
All together now...
So, still left to do:
Get stockings.
Make the lace cravat.
Make a bandana, maybe... or maybe not.  I bought Captain Julien's wig today.
These things I plan to accomplish before Dragon*Con 2007.

For a later date:
Make a tricorn.
Make silver buckles out of pmc for the shoes.

Captain Julien's wig...
August 21, 2007:
I finished the cravat today, and took pictures of it tied and secured with the dragon pin.  Here are some photos.
August 23, 2007:
I found other Steampunk accessories for Captain Julien; I hope they arrive before next Wednesday.  But if not, he will have them next time.  Keys.  Seven keys on a ring. 
August 24, 2007:
I did a final fitting check to see that everything works... and Eric took two photos... So, a sneak peak.  More photos will follow, I promise.
August 27, 2007:
Captain Julien has been gifted the Seven Keys.
Captain Julien's Charcoal Ensemble  Portraits Page:

Ultimately, my version turned out to be not for a pirate, but for Captain Julien...
Captain Julien's 18th Century Green Ensemble Construction Page...
Captain Julien Bel's Costume Links:
Captain Julien's 18th Century Green Ensemble Portraits...
Makeup Page:
Captain Julien's 18th Century Blues Ensemble Construction Page... 

Of note: the gold blue shot dupioni I considered for this ensemble is going into a different one... The Blues:
Captain Juliens 1986 Brown Victorian Ensemble Construction Page...
Gérard Pierre's 18th Century Blues Construction Page...
My Writer's Website and FB Page:
Since September 2007, I've been writing, working on a time travel epic inspired by Captain Julien's 18th Century costumes. I'm currently editing my first two completed novel drafts, and hope to have them published soon. Please like my Facebook Page and visit my Website and stay posted on my progress!